When I started to construct my first DIY horn loudspeakers, I had to decide what material to use for building the loudspeaker enclosures. It is well known that the materials a loudspeaker cabinet is made from can affect to the sound quality produced by the speaker.
A kind of "Coloured sound" is the result due to the resonance of the cabinet walls. This subject is often discussed among speaker manufactures, and there are lots of opinions if the material of the cabinet should contribute to the sound or not.
For my DIY horn loudspeakers I choose the FE206E driver by Fostex. Fostex recommended the use of plywood, that's why I decided to learn more about this material, and its sound insulation and damping characteristics.
Although I am not an expert in building loudspeakers I know that for building a well damped speaker cabinet there is a combination of strength, stiffness, surface stability and the sound insulation of the material.
In February 2006 after I had completed the construction of my dual mono PSE 807, I decided to build a pair of horn speakers using a full range driver in a back loaded horn design.
How I tweaked my full range Back Loaded horn speakers
Almost 4 years after the construction of my Back Loaded Horn speakers, I decided tweaked them adding tractrix horns using compression drivers for the high frequencies.
Searching the web and asking friends who had already experimented with such drivers, I decided to implement a structure based on a tractrix horn using an 1" (inch) High Frequency compression driver.
Well hello.
Those speakers I made are obviously a wilson audiowatt puppy design. But except the looks, all the other construction is based on some other speaker designs. The speaker units I use are the famous scanspeak d2905-9700 non ferofluid tweeter the 18w8545 k00 mid bass and for the lower octaves the peerless hds 205.